CATEGORY

What could be more exotic than dim sum, those small taste treats served at teatime and on weekends in Chinese restaurants? More than appetizers yet less than entrees, the world of dim sum fills a peculiar culinary role when a little bite of something is absolutely in order. And while you're up, would you please make that unusual?

Vicki Liley's Dim Sum, published as part of the Essential Kitchen series, strips much of the mystery away. The combination of color photography and careful instruction gives even the novice cook permission to blunder along. But the ingredients are so flavorful that even the blunders are going to taste great. And with practice, the style of carefully made dumplings and potstickers will come together.

Dim Sum begins with a section on how to serve what you have so lovingly prepared, followed by a section on drinking tea, perhaps the best accompaniment for dim sum. The author suggests that as you explore the ways of making dim sum, you can explore a wide variety of tea, too. Then there follow sections on utensils, common ingredients, and a step-by-step, illustrated section on basic methods--how to deep-fry, how to steam, how to make dumplings, how to make buns.

And then the recipes, each one accompanied by a beautiful photo that gives the novice a clear idea of the target. You'll find Golden Shrimp Balls, Flower Dumplings, Spring Rolls, Shanghai Dumplings right off the bat. Then there's a section devoted to dumplings, another to steamed buns, one for wraps, one for seafood, one for pork, one for vegetables, and finally a section on desserts. Oh yeah, and the ever-important dipping sauces, too. Anyone who lives anywhere near an Asian market will benefit from Dim Sum. --Schuyler Ingle